If you are changing cams or maybe just checking and adjusting, heres a little info, buy the service manual, and buy a metric feeler gauge(draper#19613) and also a metric digital caliper.
valve clearance must be checked and adjusted when the engine is cold or room temp.
pull the tank, on the gas line, it has a quick disconnect.
remove black plactic under the tank
remove plastic shrouds (radiator scoops)
remove spark plug.
remove cylinder head cover (cam cover) not the head!
on the left side of the tranny, down low, there are two caps on the side of the case, one small and one big, (both have screwdriver slots)(there sliver or allum in color) the big one is called the alternator rotor nut cap, the small one is called timing inspection cap,
the big one is so you can rotate the motor over with a socket,
the small one is a inspection hole for top dead center. line and dot type.
First, bring the piston to the top dead center of its compression stroke to inspect the valve clearance, (the position at the end of the compression stroke), when the camlobes faces outside of the camshaft.
by placeing a wrench over the alternator rotor nut and turning it counterclockwise to align the TDC mark with the center of the grove or line in the inspection hole.
Using a thickness gauge (feeler gauge) measure the clearance between each cam lob and valve lifter for all four valves.
heres the tricky part. mm vs inch, metric or in?
Here are the valve clearance specs: between cam and valve lifter.
EXHAUST. 0.17mm--to--0.22mm or (0.0067"--to--0.0087")inch
INTAKE. 0.10mm--to--0.15mm or (0.0039"--to--0.0059")inch
here is a conversion table so no one gets confused. the inch numbers in the service manual have not be rounded off and must be to work! you will not find a feeler gauge in any of those numbers (inch)!
0.10mm=(.004") inch is rounded off, mm is true
0.13mm=(.005") inch is rounded off, mm is true
0.15mm=(.006") inch is rounded off, mm is true
0.18mm=(.007") inch is rounded off, mm is true
0.20mm=(.008") inch is rounded off, mm is true
0.23mm=(.009") inch is rounded off, mm is true
so if you get this point and find your in range your done, if not, record and write down all your measurements and when you start pulling your cam caps and oil lines, and cams, dont mix this stuff up, put them back, in exact order, there are caps on top of the shims, dont mix them up, timing chain placement, etc.
Your going to need shims, (how to calculate shim size?) write down all the measurements for each valve, you will need this info. example for intake:
measured intake valve clearance. lets just say it was 0.31mm, But should be between, 0.10mm & 0.15mm
so at 0.31mm its way to sloppy. so remove the old shim and measure it with a metric digital caliper, lets just say that the one we removed measures 2.60mm. so lets see what we come up with.
your first measurement was valve clearence at 0.31mm but should be between 0.10mm to 0.15mm
and the shim we removed was 2.60
the new shim size`s 2.81mm 2.76mm or something in between would work.
besure to remeasure the clearance after you work is done, just to double check your self!
also Mark and record the locations of the valve lifters and shims so that they can be reinstalled in their original postions.
when installing new after market cams, you have no know measurement, your going to use the stock shims first, just to start with something,
If there is no valve clearance, use a shim that is a few sizes smaller, and remeasure the valve clearance.
kawasaki has marked there shims, they will have some numbers on the shim, you can use the chart in the service manual, on page #(2-22)
Hope this gives some a jump start on this subject.
jump in on this subject please, (any one)