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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As many of you already know when you install a regular teather on the KFX's, when the teather is pulled, you need to shut the key off right away or you will blow the stator. The remedy up until now was buying a baldwin setup, which is expensive- i think around 170 dollars or so. Many people have been trying to figure out a way to correct this problem in the harness, well Dave at DRT motorsports has figured it out. He found out how to make a normal teather work without risking damaging your stator, he also can modify/strip down your harness for you. Its done to both my bikes, works kick ass and he really does a great job. I just thought i should give credit where credit is due, also to let you guys know that this can be done. If any of you are interested or have questions about this, call Dave at 603 396 6835 and tell him you heard about this from Brian Daigle ;)
 

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Always nice to share info thanks for that.

On another note I just want to say I have the ProArmor and it is installed with there kit I have came off a few times and had the key in the on postition for sometime (5 - 10 minutes) why the tether was pulled and I have had no issues. Obviously you don't need the install kit for a normally open tether just need to get it hooked up correctly.

Once again thanks for sharing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yes well you would find out though that if you did that a few times you would be replacing your stator, the amount of time your tether was pulled with the key on is about the max allowance before the stator burns out. Ive seen it done with the pro armor tether also, with and without install kits, its just a weired kawi problem, just thought id let people know where they could go, or who to talk to-to get this fixed!
 

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What exactly makes the stator go bad, the only thing i can think of is that ur hooking the teather up so that it shorts out the stator which is odiously bad. Any info would be nice.

Thanx

~chad
 

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QUOTE (Miles Machine @ Jan 6 2009, 11:06 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=15482
What exactly makes the stator go bad, the only thing i can think of is that ur hooking the teather up so that it shorts out the stator which is odiously bad. Any info would be nice.

Thanx

~chad
I am not exactly sure what causes it either but you must be correct that when pulled off the battery is shorting back through the stator. I have not looked closely at one yet but I am planning on installing one. I am hoping that the key switch only has three wires on it. It is very easy with a relay to make it work how it is built. If the kill switch is an open circuit when the lanyard is in place then use a normally closed relay to correct for that. If you have any questions about how to do that let me know. The only problem I foresee could go wrong is the relay wanting to “bounce” because of the vibration but there are other relays used on the thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
im telling you guys im not crazy, its not a well known problem because not many people will have the key left on with the tether pulled for more than 5 minutes. When you hookup the tether all the different way you are all talking about, it WILL work, but go ahead and try it, but leave the key on for 15 minutes and then try and start it, your stator will be cooked. Many builders including Dave Therrien at DRT tried to figure this problem out for a while, he is Josh Creamers mechanic, and they somehow figured out how to fix it. Hooking up the tether on a KFX isnt the same as hookin it up on any other bike, at least were you wont hurt anything. Its not like all of us fall off and dont turn the key off for 15 minutes, but itl be that one time where your hurt or something, and its left on, then the next time you go to ride you need to replace the stator.
 

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I used my normally open Pro Armor kill switch to trigger a SPDT Bosch relay to open up the circuit for my factory kill switch which works like a charm.
 

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QUOTE (mwca23 @ Jan 7 2009, 12:15 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=15495
I used my normally open Pro Armor kill switch to trigger a SPDT Bosch relay to open up the circuit for my factory kill switch which works like a charm.

Exactly what I am talking about!

All you have to do is find a wire that has to be hot for the bike to run and when you flip the switch to off it goes dead; then take a relay and make that happen as you have done, it will work fine. I would suspect that the key switch and thumb switch are both that way. I suspect when most people are having a problem is that they are using the normally open kill switch as a short to ground when the lanyard is pulled(kill switch goes closed). Therefore making a lot of current flow but it will cut the bike off. I have seen some people recommend using this technique and shorting the coil wire to ground which I would not do. You could also short any wire that has to be hot for the bike to run but this is a bad idea. Use a relay. I am not sure if the key switch, thumb switch, or roll over sensor will be easier to get to but it is not a hard problem to solve. All you are doing is using a relay to make a normally open circuit a normally closed circuit.
 

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in that case couldn't you get a normally closed tether and hook it inline with a circuit that needs power, say the switched hot from the key to the ECU to cut ignition spark??
 

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QUOTE (Miles Machine @ Jan 8 2009, 10:15 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=15558
in that case couldn't you get a normally closed tether and hook it inline with a circuit that needs power, say the switched hot from the key to the ECU to cut ignition spark??

If you could find a normally closed teather that would work great but I can not find one. I am about to order a teather in the next few days and build a relay circuit for it. I will do some testing and let everyone know if mines works as I think it should. I might sell a few on here for a small amount if anyone wants a kits let me know. I did go to school for 4 years for electrical engineering and now work as engineer in the nuclear power buss.
 

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QUOTE (Extent Racing 21 @ Jan 3 2009, 06:36 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=15441
As many of you already know when you install a regular teather on the KFX's, when the teather is pulled, you need to shut the key off right away or you will blow the stator. The remedy up until now was buying a baldwin setup, which is expensive- i think around 170 dollars or so. Many people have been trying to figure out a way to correct this problem in the harness, well Dave at DRT motorsports has figured it out. He found out how to make a normal teather work without risking damaging your stator, he also can modify/strip down your harness for you. Its done to both my bikes, works kick ass and he really does a great job. I just thought i should give credit where credit is due, also to let you guys know that this can be done. If any of you are interested or have questions about this, call Dave at 603 396 6835 and tell him you heard about this from Brian Daigle ;)

not to burst your bubble but hetrick racing as well as myself have found this out about a year ago its pretty darn easy too
 

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QUOTE (Miles Machine @ Jan 19 2009, 07:51 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=15677
How would you hook up the relay to work with the teather??

It is really easy but I have actually not done this yet since I have to get some money to buy the kill switch (Money is always a pain). I was not going to post exactly how to do this because I was going to make a little kit and sell it but I will just tell you because you asked and I feel bad witholding info on here. Go to your local auto parts store a get a relay with a mounting tab(not nessary to have mounting tab but nice if you want to scew it down) that would be used for a aux. lighting on a truck. It will have 5 conection pins sticking out of it and will be labeled with the following number or letters (85,86,87,87a,30). Make sure it can handle at least 30 amps but I feel sure it will. Then pull off the white plastic nose cover where the indicator lights are(remove two screws and slide toward handle bars about 1/2 inch and it may be a little hard to slide then lift up). Unplug the conector going to the key switch and remove key switch. The key switch has a white and a brown wire that conect to it.

1. Hook a ground wire to terminal 85.

2. Cut the brown wire(comming out of the key switch) and hook the end closest to the key and one of the kill switch wires to terminal 30(it does not matter which one of the wires from the kill switch but if the kill switch is labled use the wire NOT labeled ground but it really will not make difference).

3. Hook the other wire from the kill switch to terminal 86.

4. Hook the other other end of the brown wire (closest to the plug) to terminal 87a.

5. Terminal 87 will not be use and do NOT let it touch anything metal because when the lanyard is pulled it will be hot (electrically hot) and will blow the 30 amp fuse if it is touching anything metal. I would recomend taping up all the connections so that none of then have a chance of touching anything.
TIPS:

-It may be easier or nessary to remove the whole front fender assy.

-I would recomend sealing all the edges of the relay with RTV.

-May sure to make all connection waterproof with shink wrap and tape or how ever you please.

-Make sure all wires can move freely with handle bars but mount relay tight and zip tie everything.
 
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