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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone else kfx run hot all the time. I race the GNCC's & 15 minutes into racing my temp light is on and the fan is running. Not only does it when i'm racing but also when i'm out practicing. I have a pcIII uni filter full yosh pipe. i run evens engine coolent which does not boil over. I've ran engine ice and almost completely empty by the time i'm done racing. It did not over heat last season. it started this year. Any help would be grateful.
 

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QUOTE (bmann400 @ Sep 21 2008, 08:20 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=12243
Anyone else kfx run hot all the time. I race the GNCC's & 15 minutes into racing my temp light is on and the fan is running. Not only does it when I'm racing but also when I'm out practicing. I have a pcIII uni filter full yosh pipe. i run evens engine coolant which does not boil over. I've ran engine ice and almost completely empty by the time I'm done racing. It did not over heat last season. it started this year. Any help would be grateful.
I have not seen this issue but based on what you state about the fan coming on that circuit appears to be working maybe coming on at too high of a temp but usually either it works or it doesn't when it comes to the KFX.

I know that if you got a bunch of mud or anything blocking the front of the radiator, this would limit airflow and could cause overheating even if the fan is running.

I am concerned that you say there is no boil over yet by the end of the race you are almost out of coolant, if that is the case I would be very worried. However if you were loosing liquids via a water jacket failure I would think it would be obvious either in an external leak which should be visible if you stop and look for it after you warm it up, or in a hard running white smoke producing engine, if it was getting dumped in the cylinder. I mean if you put it in at the beginning and it is gone at the end it is going somewhere. Is the oil milky colored or semi-clear/dark like usual?


If you have a laser temp reader you could use it to see exactly what the temp is when the overheat light comes on. Or you could look at an in-line coolant temp gauge like I have or since some don't like the in-line gauge they make some temperature strips that are adhesive and can be attached to your radiator to give you a rough visual reading.

Whatever you do, do not continue to run it in this state, heat is not kind to these engines and you will be spending some serious cheese if you keep driving it in these conditions.

There are some pointers here and on the other boards to test the temperature switch which engages the fan. The other items can be checked visually.

A bad map could also be adding to the problem as a lean condition could raise the heat levels in the cylinder.
You can look here to get a rough gauge of what the plug should look like in various operating conditions.
http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark_plugs_catalog.html


Please keep us in the loop as to what the problem is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
the fan is running the entire time, & then for about 10 to 15 minuntes after i'm off the track. I've change the mapping several times & it doesn't help.





QUOTE (dlkfx450 @ Sep 21 2008, 11:37 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=12244
is the fan turning on??
did u change the tune/map on your bike?

You miss understood me. The engine ice boiled out. The evens coolent does not. I still have a full radiator @ the end of the race with the evans. There are no leaks any where in the head or rthe cylinder. It was all just off and tested. I have had a couple of the relays go bad. I don't know if they have to do with anything or not.





QUOTE (raredirt @ Sep 22 2008, 02:56 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=12264
I have not seen this issue but based on what you state about the fan coming on that circuit appears to be working maybe coming on at too high of a temp but usually either it works or it doesn't when it comes to the KFX.

I know that if you got a bunch of mud or anything blocking the front of the radiator, this would limit airflow and could cause overheating even if the fan is running.

I am concerned that you say there is no boil over yet by the end of the race you are almost out of coolant, if that is the case I would be very worried. However if you were loosing liquids via a water jacket failure I would think it would be obvious either in an external leak which should be visible if you stop and look for it after you warm it up, or in a hard running white smoke producing engine, if it was getting dumped in the cylinder. I mean if you put it in at the beginning and it is gone at the end it is going somewhere. Is the oil milky colored or semi-clear/dark like usual?
If you have a laser temp reader you could use it to see exactly what the temp is when the overheat light comes on. Or you could look at an in-line coolant temp gauge like I have or since some don't like the in-line gauge they make some temperature strips that are adhesive and can be attached to your radiator to give you a rough visual reading.

Whatever you do, do not continue to run it in this state, heat is not kind to these engines and you will be spending some serious cheese if you keep driving it in these conditions.

There are some pointers here and on the other boards to test the temperature switch which engages the fan. The other items can be checked visually.

A bad map could also be adding to the problem as a lean condition could raise the heat levels in the cylinder.
You can look here to get a rough gauge of what the plug should look like in various operating conditions.
http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark_plugs_catalog.html
Please keep us in the loop as to what the problem is.
 

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The kfx is known to have a poor cooling system. The stock radiator is a mutli core and does not flow very well the stock water pump is also known for cavitation If you repalce them your kfx well be very happy and so well you this seem to be most important when you have engine mods . the water pump is now on the market
 

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bmann400 by chance do you have an update on this issue?

kevinpowerski
Good mention on the pump. Not sure of the best way to test flow without pulling radiator lines off and such, even then I am not sure what is adequate/proper flow rate for the cooling system.

With frequent severe cavitation you could potentially have some clogging as well, which would affect coolant flow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
switch the mapping back to the pro circut map. temp light hasn't come on yet. i did just have an ignition coil just go bad. don't know why? it ran fine @ Powerline park. got home nothing. Thank god the computer throughs codes for you to read.
 
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