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Well i decided to get rid of the black blob on the handlebars and wire up a teather switch. The teather switch is Pingel part #640 N/C 2 piece 7/8th switch. The starter button is a killswitch button off a yz dirtbike.
Now for the wire colors- if you cut the wires right by the black blog there will be more wires then if you cut more down by the plug under the hood cause there are a few wires that go into 1.
Right by the blog there is-
Red
Red Yellow Strip
Red Black Strip
Red Blue Strip
Red White Strip
Yellow Green Strip
Yellow Red Strip
Black Red Strip
Black

Now if you follow the wires down more you will see that Black/Red Connects to Yellow Red
then Red/White, Yellow Green, and Red/Blue go into tan.
Alittle drawing i made-

Im not sure right now what wires are high beam/low. But heres some directions for the starter button and teather switch.
1.What i would reccomend doing is taking the hood off the front of your bike. With that off you can access the wiring.
2. Follow the wire down from the Black Blog on the handlebars and cut the wire about 2-3in's form the velcro bag the wires go into. If you cut there you will only see these color wires-
Yellow/Red
Tan
Red/Black
Red
Red/Yellow
Black.
3. To connect the Starter Button connect 1 wire of the starter button to Yellow/Red then the other end to Black
4. To connect the Normally Closed Teather(this will not working with Normally Opened tether switches like Pro-Design,ProArmor etc..) connect one end of the teather to yellow/red(yes 1 end of the starter button is connected to it too) and then connect the other end to the Tan wire.
5. Now soldier all your connections and shrink wrap them or tape.
6. Now for the light hook up i will figure that out tomorrow and get back to you ASAP.

If you have any questions feel free to ask before you do this. You can contact me on here or through email at [email protected] or aim at mat122689

Here is some finished pictures off my phone-


 

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I'll second that but add one thing. If you don't like the killswitch being mounted near the grips, (Something I personally can't stand) then when you get the Pingel, order the model for 1 1/8" bars. You'll have to mount it down low and it's best to remove the barpad but you don't care to if you mount it up just a little.

Keeps it out of the way of you getting your arm or something tangled and pulling off. Something I've had happen and lost a race b/c of before. Don't recall the part but wanna say 648 on that one. Pingels are the best of the best. I will NEVER run anything but them and have for the past for years.
 

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QUOTE (Psychosis @ Apr 30 2007, 05:45 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1636
I'll second that but add one thing. If you don't like the killswitch being mounted near the grips, (Something I personally can't stand) then when you get the Pingel, order the model for 1 1/8" bars. You'll have to mount it down low and it's best to remove the barpad but you don't care to if you mount it up just a little.

Keeps it out of the way of you getting your arm or something tangled and pulling off. Something I've had happen and lost a race b/c of before. Don't recall the part but wanna say 648 on that one. Pingels are the best of the best. I will NEVER run anything but them and have for the past for years.
Man, Pingel only makes the one and two-piece killswitches in 7/8" and 1" - they don't make anything in 1 1/8"... unless that's brand new. I talk to them about every 6 or 7 weeks, too, and I haven't heard about a 1 1/8" switch. I tried to search on a part number, but kept getting a 404 error - Since you said Part#648, that's a damn great possibility, 'cause I couldn't find that thing on the website. They'd be damn smart to make one, but...

Not saying your info isn't right - I just couldn't find it, and it's been awhile since being on the phone. I sure hope they do make that thing...


Here's a good alternative to mounting anything to your bars... They make the same Normally Closed citcuit switch in a panel-mount. It goes through a 1/2" hole that you can drill anywhere. I mounted one of these in a buddy's plastics on his 'Dale. Same switch mechanism as the Pingel Part #640 (7/8") and Pingel Part #650 (1"). It's Pingel Part #610:

 

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It is new. It wasn't in the old Parts Unlimited books. The new one which hit dealers last month has it in there though. They now have a 1 1/8" option as I have it on my quad right now. It costs less too strangely enough. I think it was like $17 less than the 7/8" which makes no sense.

And I have the one you just posted about on both of my Dales. Works very well but no room for a keyplate on the KFX and I'd rather not put it in the plastics.
 

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I can't find the part number from the Pingel. I do have the Parts Unlimited book part number.
 

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any word on hooking up lights? I would like to remove the box but, I need the lights to ride at night some times. Would you have to buy a seperate switch for the lights?
 

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QUOTE (dusteater @ Nov 14 2007, 05:36 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=4283
we used baldwins kill switch,start combo it worked real good.make shure you cut the proper wire.if not you will blow the coil.just my thoughts.
I purchased the Baldwin unit also. Pricey but worth it IMO because it requires no wire cutting, just unplug/plug and go.
 

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What do you do for a headlight switch if you use the baldwin kit?
 

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Just wondering if you ever got the lights hooked up... i have everything else but i am waiting to hear how to do the lights!!
 
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